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Tap Centre FAQ's
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Tap Centre aims to be more than simply a fantastic resource to purchase high quality goods at low prices; we also want to be a support guide for you, our customer. That is why we have compiled a list of the most frequently asked questions regarding taps and the fitting of taps in the home. We always recommend that you have your taps fitted by a trained professional, although fitting the taps yourself is a simple task if you follow the correct guides and steps.
We hope the information provided in this section can assist you in fitting taps into your home and answer many of the common questions people have on this area.
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Base Mounted Taps
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I have recently purchased a new base mounted tap but am unsure of how to remove my old tap safely?
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Removing the old tap
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Ensure the water is switched off and that the remaining water in the system is allowed to drain out through the taps. It is recommended that you turn on taps that are lower down in the system to ensure maximum drainage and to avoid dripping.
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Using a claw spanner undo the tap connectors and back nuts underneath the sinks or basin, holding the tap in place using either a wrench or by hand. If the tap will not move do not try turning the tap whilst keeping the nut still otherwise the tap may damage the finish on the sink.
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Remove the old taps and the waste fitting if the new tap has a pop-up waste feature incorporated.
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Once the taps have been removed, clean the holes bath/basin of any old sealing compound.
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I have removed my old tap from the basin, is there anything I should do before fitting my new tap?
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Before fitting the new tap
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Undo the head mechanism on the new tap and check the inside of the new tap for any excess debris as this can cause damage to the O ring and washers.
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Compare the pipe connections on the old taps to the new taps. If the old taps are longer than the new taps then a shank adapter is required.
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I am unsure of how to safely affix my new base mounted tap to the basin, can you help?
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Fitting the new base mounted tap
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Fit the new tap, seating it on the plastic bedding washer if supplied. If not, surround the hole with silicone sealing compound or sanitary sealing compound before putting the tap in place.
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Refit the back nut and tighten by hand to clamp the tap to the basin. Make sure the spout is facing the right way and tighten the back nut gently with the tap wrench.
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When fitting onto some thin baths or sinks you may require the use of a Top Hat spacing washer. This will ensure that the back nut can be tightened for a firm fixing.
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Put a new fibre washer on the tap connector and screw it to the tap tail. With the back nut and washer in place the supply pipes can be connected to the tails of the taps.
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If there is a small gap it is advisable to fit a tap extender rather than trying to strain the pipe work.
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Make sure all joints are fully tightened before turning the water back on, once on double check the tap and fittings for signs of leaking.
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If any leaks occur they can mostly be stopped by simply tightening joins otherwise the system will have to be drained and a closer and more thorough investigation should occur.
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Wall Mounted Taps
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My new wall mounted tap looks great, but how should I remove my existing one?
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Removing the old tap
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Make sure the water heating system and stop clock are switched off and that the remaining water in the system is allowed to drain out through the taps. It is recommended that you turn on taps that are lower down in the system to ensure maximum drainage and to avoid dripping.
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Using a claw spanner undo the tap connectors and back nuts underneath the sinks or basin, holding the taps in place with a wrench or by hand. If the tap will not move do not try turning the tap whilst keeping the nut still otherwise you may damage the finish on the sink.
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Remove the old taps and the waste fitting if the new tap has a pop-up waste feature incorporated.
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Once the taps have been removed the holes in the wall have to be cleaned of any old sealing compound.
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What should I do once I have removed my old tap, before fitting my new one?
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Before fitting the replacement tap
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When fitting the new pipe work within the wall try to use plastic pipe work products where possible and keep joints to a minimum.
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If copper pipes are used they need to be protected by plastic or insulation material to prevent corrosion from plaster and concrete.
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It is important to thoroughly flush the supply pipes to remove any swarf or impurities before connecting the wall mounted tap. This procedure will check there are no leaks in the pipe work.
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Can you take me through step-by-step on how to fit my new wall mounted tap?
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Fitting the new Wall mounted tap
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Fit the tails of the tap first by screwing a chrome flange onto the large threaded part of the tail. Put a large flat washer into one of the nuts at the back of the wall mounted tap and screw the nut onto the tail finger tight. Repeat for the other tail. Adjust the tails until they are positioned correctly for the ½ inch threads to go through the hole in the sink. Fully tighten the nuts and screw the chrome flanges fully forward to the nuts.
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Place the tails of the wall mounted taps through the holes in the sink.
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From behind the sink, put the two white washers then the two stainless steel washers over the tails and secure with the brass locking nuts. It is important not to tighten the nuts too tight as this may damage the sink. If necessary screw the flanges back to the sink. The wall mounted tap should now be securely fitted to the sink.
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To fit the flexible hoses, put a ½ inch flat black washer into the female nut on one hose and screw it onto the tail. Repeat on other hose.
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Screw the other ends of the hose straight onto the hot and cold 15mm copper pipe work. It is important to note that the hot should be connected to the left side of the wall mounted tap and cold to the right when looked at from the front. The spout can then be screwed onto the body of the wall mounted tap, carefully avoiding damaging the finish on the nut at the base of the spout.
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After checking all new connections, turn on the mains stop cock. Close all taps except the new wall mounted mixer and as the system starts to refill check for leaks. Once satisfied that there are no leaks the water heating should be switched back on.
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Water Pressure
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How important is water pressure when choosing new taps?
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Water Pressure is a very important factor in fitting a new tap or replacing an old one, as the correct pressure is needed in order to make the tap function satisfactorily. Usually the cold water pressure doesn't present a problem as this should be at the pressure of the mains, but the pressure of the hot water must be taken into consideration when deciding which tap style to choose.
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What should I know about water pressure before I select a new tap?
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First of all, before choosing the desired tap it is important to know the current pressure of the hot water system. Water pressure can be measured in three common units, bar, psi and Head (m). 1 bar = 10 metres Head = 14.5 psi.
For example if the vertical distance was 5m this would roughly equate to 0.5 bar maximum available pressure. Note: if the route the pipes take is not direct, has lots of bends or long horizontal runs the available water pressure will be reduced.
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How can I tell what kind of water heating system I have and how do they affect my choice of taps?
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There are two types of hot water system available pressurised and nonpressurised, it is important to find out which type of system is in place:
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Nonpressurised water heaters - These tend to take the form of older systems that have a cold water storage tank that is often kept in the loft. This cold water would then be then heated by a separate water heater often on a lower floor of the house. The water pressure gained from an unpressurised water heaters works on the vertical distance between the cold water tank and the tap outlet. Horizontal or corners in the piping will reduce the water pressure. It is important to note that if an un-pressurised system is fitted into a bungalow then a low pressure tap may be required.
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Pressurised water heaters - These tend to take the form of modern combination heaters or gas water heaters that supply a continuous flow of hot water. This type of water heater tends to expel 20 psi = 1.8 bar = 18m head, which is a healthy water flow rate.
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Instant Hot Water System - Instant gas water heaters or modern combination boilers deliver a continuous large volume of hot water. With this type of system the output is typically 20psi/1.8bar/18m head. This means most taps should give good flow rates using this type of system. However, taking into account the age of the system and its overall condition, it is advisable to seek advice to confirm the actual flow rate before purchasing a new tap.
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What kind of taps would be best for both low pressure systems and high pressure systems?
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As different styles of tap require varying pressures of hot water supply, it is important to consider the different styles when choosing a new tap. It is advisable to speak with a Tap Centre specialist or your plumber before deciding on a tap but as a rough guide some tap styles are listed below to assist your decision making process:
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