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| Bathroom Taps | | Product Categories > Bathroom Taps |  | |  |  |  | CHOOSING THE CORRECT TAPS |  | | | | | | | | | | | | |  | Taps -which are now very much a fashion item -come in different styles and colours. At Tap Centre we aim to offer the most comprehensive range of taps available on the market today at extremely competitive prices!
Please browse our information site to view buying guides through to instructional guidelines on how to install taps, maintenance and useful information to ensure your taps remain in top shape. |
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Taps -which are now very much a fashion item -come in different styles and colours. Not all taps are built to last, so check the quality if you are buying for the long term. Chromium-plated brass taps are the most durable. Check that the taps You are considering will fit the layout of holes in the basin for which they are intended.
The secret to avoiding leaking taps and dripping taps is to only install good quality taps.
Some taps imported from the Continent have relatively small inlets and are intended for use with mains- pressure supply only. These taps will not work efficiently if they are connected to a low-pressure tank, fed supply.
The majority of washbasins are fitted with individual taps for hot and cold water. While capstan-head taps are still manufactured for use in period-style bathrooms, most modern taps have a shrouded head made of metal or plastic. A lever-head tap turns the water from off to full on with one quarter turn only.
This type is convenient for the elderly or disabled, who may have difficulty in manipulating other taps.
In a mixer tap, hot and water cold are directed to a common spout. Water is supplied at the desired temperature by adjustment of the two valves. With a single-lever mixer tap, flow rate and temperature are controlled by adjusting the one lever.
~ Washbasin mixer taps sometimes incorporate a pop-up waste plug. A series of interlinked rods, operated by. a button or small knob on the centre of the mixer, open and close the waste plug in the basin.
Normally, the body of the tap, which connects the valves and spout, rests on the upper surface of the washbasin. But it is also possible to mount it in its entirety on the wall above the basin. Another alternative is for the valves to be mounted on the basin and divert hot and cold water to a spout mounted on the wall above.
Over recent years there have been some revolutionary changes in the design of taps that have made them easier to operate and simpler to maintain. | | | | | | | | Rising-spindle taps | | | This traditional tap design has a washer on the end of a spindle that rises as the tap is turned on. It is a simple, rugged mechanism that lasts for years. | | | | | | | | Non-rising-spindle taps | | | Theoretically, these taps should exhibit fewer problems than rising-spindle taps, so that leaking taps and dripping taps are not such a problem. This is because the mechanism imposes less wear on the washer. In practice, however, the spindle's fine-thread is prone to wear, and there is potential for misalignment caused by the circlip, that holds the mechanism in place. | | | | | | | | Ceramic Disc taps | | | With these taps, precision-ground ceramic discs are used in place of the traditional rubber washer. One disc is fixed and the other rotates until the waterways through them align and water flows. There is minimal wear, as hard-water scale or other debris is unlikely to interfere with the close fit of the discs. However, if a problem does develop, the entire inner cartridge and the lower seal can be replaced. This is described for leaking and dripping ceramic taps above. | | | | | | | | Single-lever mixer tap | | | Moving the lever up and down turns the water on and off. Swinging it from one side to the other gradually increases the temperature, by mixing more hot water with the cold. | | | | | | | |
 | TAP FITTING GUIDELINES |  | | | | | | | | | | | | |  | Taps -which are now very much a fashion item -come in different styles and colours. At Tap Centre we aim to offer the most comprehensive range of taps available on the market today at extremely competitive prices!
Please browse our information site to view buying guides through to instructional guidelines on how to install taps, maintenance and useful information to ensure your taps remain in top shape. |
| | | | | | | |  | |  | | | When fitting a wall mounted tap there are a few key steps to follow. If this easy guide is followed then any wall mounted tap fitting should run smoothly and without problem. When changing a wall mounted tap one of the hardest and most important steps is removing the old taps. | | | | | | | | | Removing an old tap | | | | |  | Make sure the water heating system and stop clock are switched off and that the remaining water in the system is allowed to drain out through the taps. A good idea is to turn on taps that are lower down in the system to ensure maximum drainage and to avoid dripping. |  | Using a claw spanner undo the tap connectors and back nuts underneath the sinks or basin. If the tap begins to turn get somebody to hold the tap still or use a wrench to steady the tap. If the tap will not move do not try turning the tap whilst keeping the nut still else the tap may damage the enamel on the sink. |  | Remove the old taps and the waste fitting if the new tap has a pop-up waste feature incorporated. |  | Once the taps have been removed the holes in the wall have to be cleaned of any old sealing compound. |
| | | | | | | | | Before fitting the new tap | | | | |  | When fitting the new pipe work within the wall use plastic pipe work products where possible and keep joints to a minimum. |  | If copper pipes are used they need to be protected by plastic or insulation material to prevent corrosion from plaster and concrete. |  | It is important to thoroughly flush the supply pipes to remove any swarf or impurities before connecting the wall mounted tap. This procedure will check there are no leaks in the pipe work. |
| | | | | | | | | Fitting the tap: Wall Mounted | | | | |  | Fit the tails of the tap first by screwing a chrome flange onto the large threaded part of the tail. Put a large flat washer into one of the nuts at the back of the wall mounted tap and screw the nut onto the tail finger tight. Repeat for the other tail. Adjust the tails until they are positioned correctly for the ½ inch threads to go through the hole in the sink. Fully tighten the nuts and screw the chrome flanges fully forward to the nuts. |  | Place the tails of the wall mounted taps through the holes in the sink. |  | From behind the sink, put the two white washers then the two stainless steel washers over the tails and secure with the brass locking nuts. It is important not to tighten the nuts too tight as this may damage the sink. If necessary screw the flanges back to the sink. The wall mounted tap should now be securely fitted to the sink. |  | To fit the flexible hoses, put a ½ inch flat black washer into the female nut on one hose and screw it onto the tail. Repeat on other hose. |  | Screw the other ends of the hose straight onto the hot and cold 15mm copper pipe work. It is important to note that the hot should be connected to the left side of the wall mounted tap and cold to the right when looked at from the front. The spout can then be screwed onto the body of the wall mounted tap, carefully avoiding damaging the finish on the nut at the base of the spout. |  | After checking all new connections, turn on the mains stop cock. Close all taps except the new wall mounted mixer and as the system starts to refill check for leaks. Once satisfied that there are no leaks the water heating should be switched back on. |
| | | | | | | |  | |  | | | If a deck mounted tap is chosen, there are a few key steps to follow in order to fit the tap. If this easy guide is followed then any base mounted tap fitting should run smoothly and without problem. When changing a tap one of the hardest and most important steps is removing the old taps. | | | | | | | | | Removing an old tap | | | | |  | Make sure the water is switched off and that the remaining water in the system is allowed to drain out through the taps. A good idea is to turn on taps that are lower down in the system to ensure maximum drainage and to avoid dripping. |  | Using a claw spanner undo the tap connectors and back nuts underneath the sinks or basin. If the tap begins to turn get somebody to hold the tap still or use a wrench to steady the tap. If the tap will not move do not try turning the tap whilst keeping the nut still else the tap may damage the enamel on the sink. |  | Remove the old taps and the waste fitting if the new tap has a pop-up waste feature incorporated. |  | Once the taps have been removed, clean the holes bath/basin of any old sealing compound. |
| | | | | | | | | Before fitting the new tap | | | | |  | Undo the head mechanism on the new tap and check the inside of the new tap for any excess debris as this can cause damage to the O ring and washers. |  | Compare the pipe connections on the old taps to the new taps. If the old taps are longer than the new taps then a shank adapter is required. |
| | | | | | | | | Fitting the tap: Deck Mounted | | | | |  | Fit the new tap, seating it on the plastic bedding washer if supplied. If not, surround the hole with silicone sealing compound or sanitary sealing compound before putting the tap in place. |  | Refit the back nut and tighten by hand to clamp the tap to the basin. Make sure the spout is facing the right way and tighten the back nut gently with the tap wrench. |  | When fitting onto some thin baths or sinks you may require the use of a Top Hat spacing washer. This will ensure that the back nut can be tightened for a firm fixing. |  | Put a new fibre washer on the tap connector and screw it to the tap tail. With the back nut and washer in place the supply pipes can be connected to the tails of the taps. |  | If there is a small gap it is advisable to fit a tap extender rather than trying to strain the pipe work. |  | Make sure all joints are fully tightened before turning the water back on, once on double check the tap and fittings for signs of leaking.
If any leaks occur they can mostly be stopped by simply tightening joins otherwise the system will have to be drained and a closer and more thorough investigation should occur. |
| | | | | | | |  | |  | | | Here we are going to be fitting a waterfall tap. These instructions can also be followed for most basin taps that fit basins with a single hole. Whilst it is not impossible to fit a tap like this to the basin when the basin is fixed it is much easier to fit the tap with the basin removed from the wall. | | | | | | | | | | 1. The waterfall tap body 2. The sealing ring for between the tap and the basin 3. Retaining screws and nuts 4. Horse shoe shaped steel washer and rubber washer 5. Flexi tails.
| | | | | | | | | | The flexi tails for this particular tap are 10mm at the threaded end and have two ptfe sealing rings. These simply screw into the base of the tap and are tightened using a small spanner.
The opposite side of the flexi tail will either have fittings so that it can be screwed directly onto an isolation valve (1/2 bsp thread) or will have an O ring and compression nut so that it can be compressed onto a 15mm pipe.
| | | | | | | | | | Screw the two flexi tails into the base of the tap ensuring that the two O rings are in position. Tighten the tails up in a clockwise direction using a small spanner. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!
| | | | | | | | | | Now that the tails are screwed into the tap you can slide the rubber sealing ring over the tails and position it. The rubber ring fits between the base of the tap and the basin.
| | | | | | | | | | Feed the two flexi tails through the hole in the basin and then screw in the two screws using a screwdriver. You will notice that the screws are slotted on one end so that you can use a screwdriver.
| | | | | | | | | | When both screws are in position slide up the rubber horse shoe shaped washer and the steel horse shoe shaped washer and then fix these in place by screwing up the two retaining nuts. Hold the screws in position with a screwdriver whilst tightening the nuts in a clockwise direction. Again do not over tighten the nuts.
| | | | | | | | | | Now the tap is fixed you can connect it to the water supply.
The hot and cold supply pipes should have isolation valves fitted, if not fitted already! A single check valve should also be fitted to the cold supply pipe as this kind of tap can cause cross contamination problems with some types of heating system. | | | | | | | |  | |  | | | Changing taps with the sink already fitted is often no easy task and can be extremely difficult and uncomfortable, having the correct tools will help but it is still difficult. | | | | | | | | | | First we need to isolate the water supply, this is easy here as isolating valves have been fitted. Here I have used the flat screwdriver blade on a multi tool as access is restricted, simply turn the valve 90 degrees to isolate the water. Isolating the hot water could be simply a matter of closing a gate valve from the Cylinder, it depends on which system you have. If all else fails ensure the hot water boiler and immersion heater (if you have one) are switched off and that the main stop cock is isolated.
Open the downstairs taps and wait for the system to drain before attempting to fit the new taps. | | | | | | | | | | This is the view looking up behind the basin.
1. This is the securing nut which holds the tap to the basin, this is called a Top Hat Nut. 2. This is the Tap connector, these come in two sizes 1/2 inch for basin taps and 3/4 inch for Bath taps. Inside of the tap connector is a fibre washer which makes a watertight seal.
If you are installing the basin from new there are far easier tap connectors that you can use, such as flexible push fit connectors, these make fitting taps very easy!
| | | | | | | | | | Once the water is isolated and the taps are in the open position we can start to remove them. Here we are using the adjustable basin wrench, you need to have a practice with this as the wrench end needs to be the correct way to undo the nut. It needs turning anti-clock wise to remove it!
This is the tricky part-
Hold the tap with your other hand whilst you undo the tap connector nut from below using the adjustable basin wrench. Undo the nut completely and gently pull the pipe clear of the Tap.
| | | | | | | | | | Once the nut has been undone you can remove it from the tap and gently push it to one side. Now you can slide the box spanner over the top hat Nut, this also needs turning anti-clockwise whilst holding the tap. The box spanner has holes through it so that you can push a Tommy bar or suitably sized screwdriver through the holes to get some leverage to undo or tighten the nut.
| | | | | | | | | | Here we have the following-
1. New Tap 2. Fix a tap large rubber washer, this slides over the threaded part of the tap. 3. Thin rubber washer, this slides onto the threaded part of the tap once it has been placed in the hole on the sink. 4. Metal washer, this slides onto the threaded part of the tap after the thin rubber washer. 5. Top Hat Nut, this goes on last and pushes the metal washer, which compresses the rubber washer onto the basin.
| | | | | | | | | | If you are not using a fix-a-tap washer kit or similar you will have to use the anti-rotational washer that came with the taps, simply push the tap through the washer, place it through the hole in the sink and screw up the top hat washer.
| | | | | | | | | | Here you can see that the tap has been pushed through the thick rubber washer (2). ( if you are not using a fix-a-tap kit then you will put the anti-rotational washer that came with the taps on instead)
| | | | | | | | | | The tap is now pushed through the hole in the basin. Now slide the thin rubber washer (3) onto the threaded part of the tap followed by the metal washer (4) and finally the Top hat Nut. Screw the top hat nut as far as you can by hand.
| | | | | | | | | | Hold the tap from above ensuring that it is in the correct position or get an helper to hold it.
Now tighten the top hat nut using the box spanner and a suitable Tommy bar / screwdriver.
The nut needs to be tight but do not over tighten it or it will crack as it is only
| | | | | | | | | | Obtain a new fibre washer, the correct size for the Tap connector, this is normally 1/2 inch for basins and 3/4 inch for baths.
Remove the old washer from the tap connector and replace it with the new one.
| | | | | | | | | | Tighten the Tap connector by turning it clockwise, ensuring that it is not cross threaded and then tighten it up Using either an adjustable tap wrench or fixed tap wrench, whilst still holding the tap to prevent it from moving.
| | | | | | | | | | When the taps are fitted ensure that they are in the open position when you restore the water supply, leave them to flush for a short while so that no sediment etc. can get lodged in the tap and damage the washers. If you had to turn off the main stopcock to the property then leave the hot taps closed but leave the cold tap open slightly. Let the water run through the tap for 10 mins, slowly. Then you can open the hot tap- this is to prevent any sediment that may of been disturbed from entering the Hot water system or boiler!
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 | TAP MAINTENANCE |  | | | | | | | | | | | | |  | Taps -which are now very much a fashion item -come in different styles and colours. At Tap Centre we aim to offer the most comprehensive range of taps available on the market today at extremely competitive prices!
Please browse our information site to view buying guides through to instructional guidelines on how to install taps, maintenance and useful information to ensure your taps remain in top shape. |
| | | | | | | |  | |  | | | A dripping tap or leaking tap usually means that the tap washer needs renewing, but it can also be caused by a damaged valve seating. If the drip is from a mixer nozzle, then change both tap washers.
| | | | | | | | | Removing the headgear | | | | |  | Turn off the water supply to the taps (turn off water under the taps at the service valves or at the mains). Make sure the tap is turned fully on, and put the plug into the plughole to stop any small parts falling down the waste pipe. This is an important tip and can save you a lot of time and aggravation later on. | 

 |  | Unscrew or lever off the cover of a non-rising spindle tap to expose the retaining screw (use a flat head screwdriver). Remove the screw and put it in a safe place. Remove the head of the tap.
Alternatively with a rising spindle tap, prise off the index disc (in the centre of the handle) (again with a screwdriver) and remove the retaining screw to release the capstan (handle). Use an Adjustable spanner wrapped in some rag or cloth to unscrew the metal shroud and lift it from the headgear nut. |  | Undo the larger headgear nut with a spanner. Do not force the nut. If it is stiff, brace the tap body by hand or with a pipe wrench wrapped in a cloth, to prevent the tap from turning and fracturing or damaging the pipework attached to it. If you damage the pipe at this point it could cause a leak and you would need to call a plumber.
|  | If the nut is still difficult to turn, apply penetrating oil round the joint, wait for about 10 minutes to give it time to soak in, then try again. You may have to make several applications. It is also possible to apply heat to it with and electric paint stripper or blow torch but be very careful.
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| | | | | | | | | Replacing the washer | | | | |  | Prise off the washer with a screwdriver. If there is a small nut holding it in place, unscrew it with a spanner (normally 8mm). If it is difficult to undo, put penetrating oil round it and try again when is has soaked in. Then prise off the washer.
Alternatively if the nut proves to difficult to remove, then you can replace both the jumper valve and washer in one unit. |  |  | After fitting a new washer or washer and jumper valve, grease the threads on the base of the tap before reassembling. It is possible to get a special silicone gel from the plumbers merchants, but something like vaseline would do. |
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Ceramic disc taps operate in a different way from conventional taps that have washers and main spindles. They have a cartridge in the body of the tap containing a pair of ceramic discs, each one with two holes in it.
One disc is fixed in position; the other rotates when the handle is turned. As the movable disc rotates, the holes in it line up with the holes in the fixed one and water flows through them. When the tap is turned off the movable disc rotates so that the holes no longer align.
A scratched ceramic disc can cause a Dripping or leaking tap, the entire cartridge must be replaced; REMEMBER, left-handed for a hot tap or right-handed for a cold tap. Remove the damaged cartridge and take it with you when buying a replacement to make sure it is the correct size and left or right hand. Ceramic taps can also drip at the base of the cartridge if the seal has perished. | | | | | | | | | |  | | | | | | | | | | | |  | Turn off the water supply. Pull off the tap handles (it may be necessary to unscrew a small retaining screw on each) and use a spanner to unscrew the headgear section. |  | Carefully remove the ceramic cartridges, Remembering which is hot and which cold. Check both cartridges for dirt and damage. |  | If the cartridges are worn, replace with identical parts for the tap unit. Make sure the hot and cold cartridges are fitted into the correct taps. |  | If the cartridges are dirty, clean them with a damp cloth. Replace the rubber seal, if it is worn. Replace the cartridge in the tap unit, fitting the hot and cold cartridges into the appropriate taps. |
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Where you cut off the water will depend on the type of water supply you are dealing with - a cold water supply or a hot one, and whereabouts your taps are being fed from. Below are some easy steps to follow for four different situations. | | | | | | | | | | | |  | If your tap is connected to the mains, it is relatively simple to cut off the supply. Turn off the indoor stop valve. If it is stiff, it is advisable to use a spanner, or to apply a little oil if necessary. When this has been done, simply drain the remaining water away by turning on the taps until the flow of water has stopped. |  | If your hot or cold tap feeds off of pipes from the cistern, there should be either a gate valve or mini stopcock available to turn off. The stop valve can be found alongside the cold water tank. When these have been turned off, switch on the tap until the water flow has stopped.
N.B. If you find that neither the gate valve or the stopcock are present, then the cistern itself will have to be drained. |  | To drain the cistern you must first prevent water entering the system by switching it off at the mains. Alternatively you can tie up the ball-valve by placing a piece of wood across the tank and tying the arm of the ball-valve to it. Either way, the flow of water will be stopped. The bathroom taps can then be turned on to drain out the remaining water. |  | If for some reason you wish to turn of the outdoor stopcock, you will first need to find it outside of your property. If you cannot locate it, get in touch with your water company. Take of the cover off, and insert the stopcock key. When you have reached the handle at the bottom, turn it clockwise to cut off the flow. |
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First the water supply to the tap has to be cut. This can be done either by a stopcock near the tap or if all else fails switching off the water supply to the house (see Cutting off the water supply). Once the water supply has been cut, turn the tap on as far as it will go. 'Put the plug in' - Insert the plug into the hole, this will save any small objects that might fall from the tap during repair. | | | | | | | | | Removing the body | | |
Dismantle the head of the tap - if the tap has a metal cover then this needs to be removed - be sure to protect the taps surface from any tool, ideally unscrew by hand. A block of wood to support the spout can be quite useful for opposing any forces applied with a spanner. With the cover removed, the nut which contains the tap spindle and washer should be revealed, use a spanner to unscrew and lift out the tap assembly from the base and spout. | | | | | | | | | Replacing the washer | | |
The washer should be at the bottom of the removed assembly. The washer is attached in one of two ways; it is either held in place with a small nut or pushed on over a centre point. If the washer is held in place with a nut then it can be very difficult to remove in this case oil the nut with a penetrating oil to ease any corrosion. Once the old washer has been removed fit the new washer.
Reassemble the tap in reverse order. | | | | | | | |  | |  | | |
If a tap continues to drip once the washer has been replaced then it will probably require reseating. Reseating is required because grit or general wear and tear, has caused the seating to become worn, this can be remedied by reseating the tap.
'Put the plug in' - Insert the plug into the hole, this will save any small objects that might fall from the tap during repair. | | | | | | | | | Preparation | | |
Dismantle the head of the tap. If the tap has a metal cover then this needs to be removed - be sure to protect the taps surface from any tool, ideally unscrew by hand.
A block of wood to support the spout can be quite useful for opposing any forces applied with a spanner.
Reseating can be achieved by actually grinding the tap or by replacing the seat with a substitute. | | | | | | | | | Reseating the tap | | | | |  | Remove the head of the tap including the washer leaving the base and spout. |  | Screw the reseating tool into the body of the tap and alter the tool until it is in contact with the seat. |  | The tap can then be reseated by turning the tool to grind down the seat. |  | To check if the grinding is complete, look at the grinding disc, if black marks are observed then the seat requires more grinding, when they disappear completely the tap is sufficiently ground. |  | Reassemble the tap in reverse order to complete the job. |
| | | | | | | | | Replacing the seat | | |
To replace the seat of a tap, obtain a nylon seat with jumper and washer from your local DIY store. The new nylon seat should then be placed over the old seat and the jumper and washer should be fitted in place of the old ones. The tap should then be reassembled and closed as fully as possible, this will ensure the new seat has been fixed in position correctly. | | | | | | | |  | |  | | |
When renewing a washer, have a look at the valve seat inside the tap body. If it is rough or scored, possibly by grit, the seal between the washer and seat will not be effective even with a new washer and will let water by.
The easiest repair is with a combine washer and seating set, available at hardware stores.This has a plastic seat part, which fits into the valve seat, and a washer and jumper valve unit will fit into the headgear.
When the tap is turned off, the plastic seating is forced firmly into position. It may take a few days of using the tap for the new seating to give a completely watertight seal.
An alternative repair to the valve seat is to buy or hire a tap reseating tool and grind the seat smooth yourself. | | | | | | | |  | |  | | |
This is an enlarged picture of a tap head gear-
1.Spindle 2.Retaining clip 3.Head gear body 4.PTFE sealing ring 5.Rubber washer 6.Washer retaining nut
This head gear is in the open position and so this is what
it would look like when the tap is open and water is flowing. | | | | | | | | | | There are several things that can go wrong with the head gear that can stop the tap from working or prevent the tap from working as it should.
Check the retaining clip is in position, if this has broken or slipped of the spindle it can stop the tap from opening or closing.
If we wind the spindle, which is numbered 1 above the bottom part of the head gear that holds the washer moves up and down. When it moves down as far as it can go it stops the flow of water by compressing the rubber washer against the seat inside of the body of the tap.
When you have the head gear removed it is also a good time to check the seat for signs of corrosion etc.
If you were to wind the tap too far down and the washer was badly worn there is a chance that the washer assembly could have slipped off its thread.
To fix this turn the spindle whilst pushing the washer assembly towards the spindle.
If the retaining clip has slipped off the spindle then the tap may not function correctly.
If you remove the clip you can remove the whole winding assembly from the head gear body.
If your tap will no longer open or close then it is probably due to a faulty head gear. The head gear is the part of the tap that lifts the sealing washer away from the seat and enables water to flow through the tap. If the tap will no longer open or close then you can buy a replacement head gear or you can get a tap reviver kit. | | | | | | | |  | |  | | | Here we are going to be fitting a waterfall tap. These instructions can also be followed for most basin taps that fit basins with a single hole. Whilst it is not impossible to fit a tap like this to the basin when the basin is fixed it is much easier to fit the tap with the basin removed from the wall. | | | | | | | | | | 1.The waterfall tap body 2.The sealing ring for between the tap and the basin 3.Retaining screws and nuts 4.Horse shoe shaped steel washer and rubber washer 5.Flexi tails.
| | | | | | | | | | The flexi tails for this particular tap are 10mm at the threaded end and have two ptfe sealing rings. These simply screw into the base of the tap and are tightened using a small spanner.
The opposite side of the flexi tail will either have fittings so that it can be screwed directly onto an isolation valve (1/2 bsp thread) or will have an O ring and compression nut so that it can be compressed onto a 15mm pipe.
| | | | | | | | | | Screw the two flexi tails into the base of the tap ensuring that the two O rings are in position. Tighten the tails up in a clockwise direction using a small spanner. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!
| | | | | | | | | | Now that the tails are screwed into the tap you can slide the rubber sealing ring over the tails and position it. The rubber ring fits between the base of the tap and the basin.
| | | | | | | | | | Feed the two flexi tails through the hole in the basin and then screw in the two screws using a screwdriver. You will notice that the screws are slotted on one end so that you can use a screwdriver.
| | | | | | | | | | When both screws are in position slide up the rubber horse shoe shaped washer and the steel horse shoe shaped washer and then fix these in place by screwing up the two retaining nuts. Hold the screws in position with a screwdriver whilst tightening the nuts in a clockwise direction. Again do not over tighten the nuts.
| | | | | | | | | | Now the tap is fixed you can connect it to the water supply. The hot and cold supply pipes should have isolation valves fitted, if not fitted already! A single check valve should also be fitted to the cold supply pipe as this kind of tap can cause cross contamination problems with some types of heating system. | | | | | | | |
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